Yes we can't

World Cup fever in Algiers

This article, written by Culturissima's managing director, Dr David Winter, was first published in When Saturday Comes June 18, 2010

Yes We Can't runs the headline in English in one of Algeria's leading papers as the Desert Foxes, still groggy after their 1-0 reverse against Slovenia, prepare to face the ogre anglais. Algeria expects, but not a lot: Une Mission Impossible is how Le Soir d'Algerie sums up the national team's chances against England, although most of the cafe talk still centres on who to blame for Sunday's defeat. Rabah Saadane gets it in the neck for his team selection, Abdelkader Ghezzal for his two yellow cards and Fawzi Chaouchi for his Greenesque goalkeeping blunder.

More venom is reserved for the team's barber, now obliged to carry his scissors in his back pocket for the rest of his life. Three of Algeria's players took to the pitch against Slovenia with dyed blond locks: "Bloody poofs," hissed my neighbour. "Since when have Arabs been blond? I'm glad they lost, otherwise all the kids would have come home looking daft. Why can't they be proud of where they come from?"

This last point is moot: 16 of the Algeria squad were born in France, and they're now being compared to the tomatoes on sale in Bab el Oued market: imported and crap. One hero did emerge from the opening game, though: the Algerian supporter pictured sitting atop one of the floodlights high above the stadium drew repeated roars of laughter from television spectators used to devising cunning ways to defeat the authorities.

There can be no doubt that the mood of national pessimism will be entirely cast aside as the England game approaches. Why? Because Friday's match is the most eagerly anticipated fixture in Algeria's history as it offers the country that rarest of opportunities: the chance to heave itself onto the world stage. To share a pitch with Lampard and Gerrard and Rooney is a source of inestimable pride for a nation that is largely ignored by the West.

What is more extraordinary still is that there is no bitterness or animosity towards England or the US, the Fennecs' final group opponents, even though these two countries have recently promoted Algeria – ludicrously – to the premier league of terrorist nations. Should they win today, then the decade of national strife will be forgotten – and the arranged elections almost certainly called at once.

The jubilation following Algeria's qualification for South Africa surpassed the outpouring of joy following independence in 1962. Victory over the Three Lions – and Franz Beckenbauer has just appeared on national television saying it's possible – would catapult this most downtrodden of countries into an ecstasy of teetotal celebrations: "Hallucinant, it would be hallucinant if we beat you."

So much for African fraternity

Patriotism in the Algerian capital, Algiers

I'm working in Algiers, the Algerian capital, on behalf of Culturissima, writing and researching a batch of cultural tours along Algeria's Mediterranean coast and deep down into the Sahara.

But the World Cup's just this moment started, and South Africa - the host country, of course, have just played their first match... so I've sent this off to a British football magazine for publication:

So much for African fraternity: the moment the referee blew the opening whistle for South Africa versus Mexico was the signal for the inhabitants of Algiers to desert their television sets and turn the streets of the capital into a Mediterranean Rio.

"Aren't you watching the game?"

"No, we want to have fun! One, Two, Three - Viva l'Algérie! Besides, it's sunny in North Africa but it's snowing in South Africa!"

He’s right: the television reception is poor – so much so that my neighbours devoted the whole of last night to hooking their ramshackle tv set directly to a huge satellite dish on the roof of a nearby tower block.

The reward for such initiative?

A spell behind bars - the dish sits on top of the local police headquarters.

Hopes are far from sky-high as Algeria gears up for Sunday’s opening clash between the Desert Foxes and Slovenia (Or is it Serbia? Croatia? Nobody seems to know).

"Une participation honorable, that’s what we’re after", says one local journalist: "But that’s the problem – that’s all we ever want: mediocrity. Give us our daily bread and fixed elections once every five years – that’s all we ever pray for".

Falah Benyoucef set out to disprove such cynicism by walking from Algiers to South Africa to watch Algeria’s first game, a journey of 8,000 miles.

It was only after trudging over the Atlas mountains, traversing the broad expanses of the Sahara desert and reaching Algeria’s southern border with Niger that Falah, now a national hero, inspected the visa in his passport: Maximum Stay in Niger – 24 Hours. Seven hundred miles in the space of a day was a feat too far even for Falah the Magnificent.

A few hundred wealthy Algerian supporters have made it to South Africa, flying from a special terminal that is normally reserved for pilgrims on their return from Mecca. On arriving the fans learned that "capitaine courage", Yazid Mansouri, has been dropped by manager Rabah Saadane, whose latest press conference ended with the hope that his team will make up for their individual weaknesses with collective desire.

This esprit de corps is very much alive in the western city of Oran – or that’s what the president of the region’s electricity board is promising: "We will have an équipe of highly trained engineers on duty during all Algeria’s matches. There is no reason for the public to panic".

Why the worry?

Well, many Oranais are still confused as to what happened to Zidane in the 2006 final. There was a power cut just before the forehead of Algeria’s most famous son made contact with Materazzi and many locals have still not seen the pictures of one of sport’s most iconic moments. It couldn't happen again, could it? Well, in the southern city of Ouargla the thermometer is now touching 46° in the shade, the power has gone off, the back-up generator has failed, there's no air-conditioning, no running water... but "One, Two, Three - Viva l'Algérie!"


Dr David Winter

Tartu

Am enjoying two or three days in the Baltic republics of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania, where the countryside is studded with isolated manor houses, sturdy mediaeval castles and graceful Rococo churches.

We started in Tallinn, one of the gems of northern Europe, where the old town’s cobbled streets are ringed by mediaeval walls and ancient defensive towers. The fortified hill of Toompea, once the seat of the region’s bishops and nobility, is the setting for the Lutheran Toomkirik, built by the Danes in the early 13th century, and the 19th century Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, a souvenir of Russian authority.

But Tartu, founded in 1632 by the Swedish king Gustav Adolf, has probably been my favourite destination. The town is the beating intellectual heart of Estionia and, although sacked and pillaged throughout history, the historic core retains an air of peace and refinement, as befits the country’s oldest university town. Tartu also boasts its very own leaning tower, a marvellous neo-Classical cobbled square and, in St John’s Church, one of northern Europe’s most imposing brick Gothic monuments.

The principal objective is to not be ridiculous

Algerians like their flags large

This article, written by Culturissima's David Winter, was first published in the Racing and Football Outlook, June 2010

"The principal objective is to not be ridiculous"
Rabah Saadane, Algeria manager

The "Desert Foxes" are a team of largely French-born exiles - but never has an équipe of outsiders been loved with such pride and such passion. And, quaint though it may seem, only one thing matters to Algerian fans and players: being there. "What a privilege to be on the same pitch as England", says Foued Kadir, the Algerian midfielder who turns out for Valenciennes: "Lampard, Rooney, Gerrard – I watch them on tv and now I can’t believe I’ll be playing against them!"

There is little analysis in the Algerian press about the chances of Ziani, Bougherra and the boys in green but mention two subjects – the French coach and a coach in Cairo - and vooomph! the street cafés light up. According to a headline in Le Soir d’Algérie, "Domenech n’aime pas les Algériens".

The proof? He left Benzema and Nasri out of the French squad. And the Egyptians? During the combustible qualifier between the Rats and the Pharaohs last November, the Algerian team bus was stoned by a gang of locals. FIFA has just announced its "timides sanctions" against the Egyptian FA and the whole of Algiers is crying its favourite phrase: It’s a plot! It’s this fierce, often paranoid, closing of the ranks that could just leave "Mister Capello" looking faintly ridiculous on June 18.

Algeria at the World Cup

Win, lose or draw, there'll be war

This article - written by Culturissima's David Winter - was first published in When Saturday Comes May 30, 2010

What are the expectations for the team?
Low. It’s the taking part and the fact that Egypt won’t be there that counts. There is undiluted admiration for England, especially Wayne Rooney; the US are going to be a lot harder to beat than anyone thinks (largely due to their discipline and experience of World Cups) and no one remembers or much cares who the third team is. Even though there is not much hope, there is huge amounts of optimism. Over 40,000 national jerseys have been sold in France alone since qualification.

Is the coach popular?
Yes, he is. Rabah Saadane was even elected “Man of the Year” and, whatever happens, will largely remain so. For one, Algeria will never forget their defeat of Egypt (though they’re still awaiting with interest FIFA’s verdict on the stoning of the Algerian team bus in Cairo). Secondly, no matter how Algeria get knocked out, it will be the fault of the Egyptians, who apparently run FIFA.

Are there any players with unusual hobbies or business interests?
Many players are unknown as almost no one in the starting line-up lives in or was born in Algeria. Plus, only one player has ever and will ever count for Algeria: Zinedine Zidane.

Who are the best and worst interviewees?

Chadli Amri makes a good interviewee, especially when talking about the hogra of Algerians living in France (hogra means being excluded and held in contempt): “North Africans being molested in France or not given housing like the others? It happens all the time. Me, I’m not putting up with that.” The coach is good when it comes to slagging off Egypt. But Lionel Messi gets twice as many column inches as any Algerian. And Zidane only needs to fart to be in the papers.

Is the team likely to have any unusual goal celebrations?
All Algeria’s goal celebrations will be over-the-top. After qualifying, both at the stadium itself and on the victory drive from the airport back to the centre of Algiers, the players paraded with a mock version of the World Cup, as though they had already won it. Elsewhere, one might consider this arrogance; here it was innocent.

Have the team recorded a song for the World Cup?
No, but at the last count 28 CDs had been knocked out by various groups celebrating qualification. “One, two, three [sung in English in a very thick Algerian accent] – Viva l’Algérie!” earns rapturous applause everywhere.

What will the media coverage be like?
Wall to wall, both in French and Arabic, with all matches covered live – and French TV is streamed into most homes. People will celebrate and take to the streets for days even if they lose. Public debate about the team risks being seen as “déstabilisation de l’équipe nationale” unless you are a member of the 1986 World Cup squad, in which case it’s perfectly acceptable to start every sentence with: “In my day...”

Will there be many fans travelling to South Africa?
A couple of thousand very rich and very privileged Algerians are hoping to make it. As ever, though, they will have to surmount numerous bureaucratic hurdles. The government has decided that to obtain a new biometric passport, each citizen is obliged to list the names of the friends he had at primary school as well as their best friend during national service.